St Petersburg

To date on this trip we’ve visited a staggering 19 countries in just over two months. There are countless towns, cities and countries we’ve rushed through that I would have loved to be able to stay in for longer, or would relish the opportunity to return to. There are also places I have little or no desire to return to, take Azerbaijan. Its not a fault of the country, other people we met categorically stated that it was their favourite place. But for me it did nothing, there was no spark, no connection. As we arrived in St Petersburg I was feeling much the same about Russia; big, impersonal, imposing and failing to captivate me in the way I’d expected it to.

Kazan cathedral; imposing, but not exactly welcoming

And then it happened; often its just one little thing which can completely flip how you feel about a place. Driving down a small side street searching for our hostel, alongside one of the many canals, I suddenly realised the place was familiar. As a Bond fan Goldeneye always holds a special place in my heart; it was the first Bond film of my generation after all. Harrison was driving along the road Bond raced down in a tank in arguably the best action sequence of the film. By the time we found our hostel and discovered Rachmaninov (probably my favourite composer) used to live here I was in love. St Petersburg is simply dripping in history, its clean, its beautiful and, unlike Moscow, the centre is relatively compact making it almost impossible to get lost. After checking in we performed our usual reconnaissance of the city before stopping for an excellent dinner.

The Saviour on the Spilled Blood Cathedral, on one of St Petersburg’s many canals

The next day we went to the hermitage, a huge collection of historical Russian artefacts displayed in several different (joined) buildings. We’d been advised to pay extra for a guided tour; I was glad we did as the additional information and anecdotes provided by the guide led to a far richer experience than we’d have got simply wandering of our own accord. The opulence of the palaces may have been more impressive than the exhibitions themselves, I don’t think I have ever, or will ever, see more gold leaf in such a small area. The wealth of the Russian monarchy was immense; when Empress Catherine’s collection of priceless art became too large she simply ordered a new extension to the palace be built to house it!

The opulence in the entrance to the Hermitage

Vard looking thoroughly enthralled by a pot; it was a really interesting museum, despite how it looks here!

After the tour we decided that was enough culture for one day and returned to the hostel. Here we made friends with a couple of girls we were sharing our dorm with; Holly (who writes an excellent blog, here) and Vanessa. As it was getting towards dinner time the five of us went out and enjoyed some excellent Russian cuisine, with an obligatory bottle of red wine, or two. As it was still early we went to another (cheaper!) bar and had a few more drinks, before we befriended some Russians and moved on to a karaoke bar. So far north it never truly gets dark, and as we hitch hiked home at 5am the sun was already rising, and the city was already starting to wake. Or perhaps, like me, had not yet slept. It almost makes it sound poetic…

After our late night we woke early the next day. Just kidding; it was early afternoon before we emerged. As Jon had already been to St Petersburg, and was in no mood to leave his bed, he opted to remain at the hostel while Holly, Vanessa, Vard and I went to explore an old Soviet weapon museum. The temperature was in the low thirties as we walked through the city. We diverted through the Peter and Paul fortress, walking past hordes of locals sunbathing and swimming in the river. We arrived too late to see the main display but were still able to explore the outdoor area which contained a range of tanks and other artillery.

Vanessa, Vard and Holly, in the armoury

Russia really doesn’t go in for half measures!

For dinner we made our way to a Korean restaurant. As Vanessa, who although Chinese had lived in Russia for around a year and therefore spoke the language well, flicked through the menu she discovered that the prices in the Russian section were around half those shown in the English version of the menu. Offended by such a blatant attempt to rip us off we found an alternative, much cheaper place which served authentic Russian food (and had the same prices in all languages!).

After dinner Jon, Vanessa and I decided to walk around the city. Strangely it seems that around 11pm is when the city really comes to life. While the streets had been busy during the day by night they were full; couples, groups of friends and even families with young children all making the most of the cooler temperatures. Stopping outside the Saviour on the Spilled Blood Cathedral and listening to a string quartet busking the only criticism any of us had was that they weren’t playing Rachmaninov, otherwise it would have been one of those fabled perfect moments. By the time we managed to tear ourselves away from the quartet the light had finally faded and the buildings were illuminated; this is when the city looks at its best. We walked around, taking photos and soaking up the atmosphere before returning to our hostel once again.

The interior of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood- it was completely covered in intricate mosaics

Holly had mentioned a free walking tour the day before; of the three of us I was the only one who decided to get up in time to make it. Holly and I had to run to the tube stop, even so we arrived 10 minutes after the start of the tour. Fortuitously the group hadn’t moved far and we were able to join them. Our guide walked us around the city; despite having been everywhere before many small details had previously alluded me. As we walked I chatted to our guide, a beautiful Russian named Anya (I think). As with Nelly previously she was incredibly open and happy to discuss the current issues going on with Russia and the Ukraine, as well as giving me more of an insight into what living in St Petersburg was like.

As we left Russia I reflected, as I have done as I’ve left each country. Would I recommend visiting to a friend? Would I want to live there? Would I go back? I think Russia is the first country I’d answer all the above with an indifferent shrug; sure its worth visiting but not for the £150 visa. I’d love to live in St Petersburg, but I would prefer to live in another city. I guess I’d go back, if it was en route somewhere else? So, in conclusion, Russia: interesting but maybe not for me.